The river Cheonggyecheon, in the heart of Seoul, used to be paved over. A highway was built over it when the city was expanding rapidly back in the 1960s. In the early 2000s the decision was made to remove the street and restore the river. Now it is a major draw for people wanting to hang out. My sister told me all that and we thought it would be fun to spend the evening there. It was a warm late-summer night. We armed ourselves with rice liquor and ice cream and dove into the crowds.